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Paros Greece - tavernas line dry locally caught Octopus
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| Samos Greece - in the name of tenderising it is common for local fishermen to beat the bejesus out of poor unsuspecting Octopii |
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I don't profess to be a puritan about this blog. Yes, it is supposed to be about Salt and Pepper Squid, but who am I to discriminate against other delectable variations of the animalia kingdom. In the ocean world Octopoda and Teuthida are like first cousins, so it's really no big deal to include photos and recipes from both. I must admit I have always had a fascination with Octopus, travels through Greece where locally caught seafood, "the catch of the day", is frequently the jewel in the crown of taverna menus from island to island. I was introduced to cleaning and eating Octopus from a young age, my Mum (The Grifter) would give me the job of cleaning baby Octopus where the key was to extract the "beak", and of course clean the heads. I realise now, many years later, the cunning methodology she employed as it was the worst prep job in the kitchen, but I was no less intrigued and beguiled by how those ugly slippery little suckers could turn into such tasty seafood treats. Nowadays, it's odd to find Octopus for sale in a fishmongers which hasn't allready been cleaned and is ready for cooking, and trust me, that is a good thing.
Now there are two basic theories to cooking Octopus in order to obtain the best results; either long and slow such as a braise, or grilled or seared quickly over high heat such as a BBQ. I have included my absolute favourite recipes for each, the first is from my brother's childhood mate The Spaniard, who happens to be Spanish, and the second is from The Grifter who isn't.
BABY BBQ OCTOPUS
1kg cleaned baby Octopus
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
2 tsp of dried Greek oregano
1 tbsp finely chopped parsley
2 crushed cloves of garlic
Juice of one lemon (zest is optional)
A good glug of extra virgin olive oil (around 1/4 cup)
2 tsp salt and a few good grinds of pepper
Pinch of chilli flakes or 1 de-seeded and finely chopped red chilli
Mix marinade ingredients first and season to taste before inviting the Octopus in for a swim. If the balance is right, then add the Octopus and marinade for at least 2 hours or preferably overnight. Fire up your barbeque or grill and when hot, and the Octopus cooking for 2-5 minutes turning occasionally. If the BBQ is hot enough the Octopus tentacles will sizzle and curl up almost straight away. Be sure to get a good char going as there is nothing better than BBQ Octopus that also has a smoky BBQ flavour. Serve with wedges of lemon.
PICKLED OCTOPUS
1 cleaned whole Octopus, at least 1kg
1 garlic clove crushed
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup white vinegar
Couple of sprigs of dried Greek oregano
Salt and pepper to taste
The Greek name for this recipe is Oktapodi Toursi, which I don't think translates into "Tourist Octopus" but I must say I think it is a really common way for Greeks and tourists alike to eat it. Firstly as it is effectively pickled in a brine it keeps very well in sterilised jars. In fact The Grifter has been known to make jars of the stuff for Christmas gifts, particularly for my Aunty who loves it so much. Of course, Octopus is now a staple on many restaurant and home menus and so it is not as cheap to buy per kilo anymore, coupled with the fact is there some kind of sub-sea Octopus steroid pusher lurking around Octopus dens because it seems neither is it possible to buy a small-ish Octopus with most ranging upwards of 1kg. But I digress...back to the recipe.
1. Buy the Octopus cleaned. You know it makes sense.
2. Place Octopus in the largest pan you have that has a lid. You do not need to add anything else. Yes that's right watch Octopussy magic take place right before your very eyes, simmering the Octopus in its own juices over low heat until it turns almost magenta in colour and is tender. This should take around 60 minutes.
3. Drain and when cool enough to handle, cut head and tentacles into bit-sized pieces and place in a bowl.
4. Add the garlic, vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper and dried oregano to the mix.
5. Mix well, cover and leave to marinate in the fridge for a day before using *
6. When ready pile into a serving dish, and serve with lemon wedges and crusty bread.
* If you want to keep the Octopus for any length of time you need to use sterilised jars. You will need to fill the top of the mix with a brine (made in the ratio 1/4 cup salt to 1 litre of water which should be boiled to dissolve the salt). You would not use all of this brine of course, just enough to cover the jar and then a thin oil slick of extra virgin olive oil so that all the Octopus is covered. Once opened, you should refrigerate and use within a few days, but truly it is so deliciously divine that shouldn't be too much of a problem.
Kali Oreksi!
Glenn Miller popularised the song in 1939, and as much as I'd like to think this Kensington Thai restaurant is paying homage to the king of swing in the naming of its restaurant, I am sure they have never heard of him. So I've eaten here twice, both times ordering the salt and pepper squid (as one does), both times to share. I think there was more on the plate the first time between three of us than there was the second time between two. "Yes" I hear you shout through the computer screen "that makes absolute sense!!!". Wrong. If you pay the same price both times, you should get the same amount of squid. 
